Chevy Volt and Electric 3 series BMW (Ev-36/46)

For this project I found some software to download for FREE (Alibre Design) that is ALMOST as good as what I used at work back then. Edit. Alibre Design sucks. They said it was free but then a few months later disallowed usage of the program. SO now my documents are drawn in a program I can't use. I DO NOT recommend it. As far as the wild machining. All the center features were as purchased (it started life as a taper lock sprocket). The blind tapped holes aren't too difficult. Well being the holiday I had some time to work on things. Turned down the OD of my pilot bushing myself. Seems they don't make a 15mm ID bearing with the OD to fit the Warp 9 motor. So I started with a Mcmaster carr HPF bushing (6659k28) and reduced the outside to about .001 over the bore dia of the hole in the motor. Well I first tired .010 over but when I pressed the bushing in it shrank the ID. The bushing was only a $1.50 so I had bought 2. good thing. Try 2 was successful and I now hav

My Flywheel adapter and one AL plate came back from the machinist today. I love seeing the parts turn from Cad into Real life. The adapter looks like it will work out exactly as planned. I have bolted it to the flywheel and slid it onto the motor shaft. I'll check it to see if it turned out true and straight and then I can go on to making the transmission plate. Here ae a couple pics. Below is the adapter setting in the back of the flywheel

Here's and update. Holidays and my online racing season have been keeping me busy. But above is a picture of the the taper lock sprocket and taperlock bushing I purchased to use in my flywheel adapter (finally got around to ordering). Also pictured is an aluminum plate I'll use for part of the motor spacer, a bronze bushing I'll use as the pilot bushing (have to alter the OD slightly) and some keystock. Dropped the Taperlock off at the machinist today. Should be a week or so until I get that back. I'm anxious to bolt the flywheel to the motor.

I picked up a chassis for the swap and at the same time got a ride in Ben's ("TelnetManta's") EV saturday. Here's a pic of me pulling the BMW home with the land rover. Incidently I had just rebuilt the land rover's auto trans myself. After that experience I really have no interest of an auto trans in my EV....Or any other car for that matter.

Here is my flywheel adapter redesigned to use a 1610 taper-lock and Modified Taperlock sprocket. I plan to install the taper lock with the setscrews facing the motor so the clutch pressure will press the adapter on tigher instead of trying to pull it off. The other big change is since the center of the sprocket is larger dia then the pilot of the flywheel I plan to use 2 dowels to locate the flywheel on the adapter. (one is in the flywheel from the factory. I'll have to add the other). I also plan to put a bushing/spacer between the motor and taperlock so the clutch force can push the assy forward. Anyway I have attached a 3D screen shot and a drawing of the adapter for your review Parts below Purchased from McMaster Carr Taper-lock Bushing- Bore Steel Sprocket # 60: 2590K83 Taper-lock Bushing, Size 1610 1-1/8 bore: 57095k164 Aluminum Plate (6061) 5/8 x 12 x12": 8975K159

I also hooked it up to my battery charger and ran it for a few min. It was nice and quiet. Quite satisfying to see/hear it spinnig. While I was at it I stood it on end and set the trans on top of it to ensure I have my dimensions correct for my adapter plate thickness. Thick enough to keep the trans input shaft from bottoming out but not too thick to have it not engage the end of the motor shaft. Looks like 1.125 thick is going to work great. Here is a pic of my measuring set up. 2 pieces of angle bolted to the motor then some spacers (happen to be sockets in my case) of the right length.

Monday the Warp 9 motor arrived. Today my aluminum flywheel arrived. Parts are starting to roll in Here is the motor as delivered infront of my V-8 powered 3 series. Here is how it was packaged. Looked pretty safe and un harmed. Some initial inspection shows that someone at the factory ran a razer knife or something similar down the larger drive shaft like they were cutting a tag off it or something. Left a pretty good scratch but It can be buffed out. No pic of the flywheel yet. I did some reading and decided that a taper-lock hub is probably the way to go. So I have to redesign my flywheel to motor attachment. Back to the drawing board

Been awhile so time for an update. While waiting for the long lead time EV parts (controller and motor) I have been shoping for a donor car. Just about bought one last weekend. After realizing the only thing I needed it for was to remove the engine and make the motor adapter I choose to just buy a transmision instead. This way I don't have another whole car hanging about the place for months while I just wait for parts. Of course if the right donor car pops up I'll grab it but until then I have something to work with. So with that in mind I started working on a adapter to adapt the WarP 9 motor to the BMW flywheel. First thing I found was the JPG drawing of the warp 9 is pretty much illegible from the netgain site. Oh well I could make out what I needed. I'm plaining to make the adapter out of a sprocket with the ID bore and Keyway dimensions required to fit the motor. Will save on some machining. I sketched it up on paper but would rather have a cad drawing. I downloaded a

I got notification that the motor will ship sometime in early October. Glad I'm not in a hurry because the controller will take even longer. Sadly I haven't even heard as much as boo from Cafe electric on a projected date. From what I gather from everyone else I should be expecting just in time for christmas

Well a little new news on the EV front. My powersteering pump arrived. Here's a picture for those that need a visual fix. The other big news is I ordered my motor today. Went with the WarP 9" as previously outlined. Been shoping for cars too. I really don't need the car until I get all the parts collected but if the perfect one was to pop up.... I've been looking at batteries. I'm thinking I need about 1,000 amp hrs worth.

I ordered a 2001 MR2 which from what I understand is less used by people for swaps. Cheaper and more available at the moment. Since I'm collecting parts and waiting for the zilla I have plenty of time to sort out the differences with the different style pump.

Not much to show at the moment . Just have the longest lead time item on order. Well after careful consideration I believe I made my decision on the Clutch Vs Clutchless. Though I believe the clutchless would work it all came down to this.......My wife. She will be driving the car as well. Her daily driver is a manual and if she is switching back and forth between the electric and she gets used to shifting with no clutch and goes back to her manual trans ICE powered car... I think you know where I am going with this.

Not much yet but I placed my order or rather "secured my place in line" for a zilla controller so I guess the project is started. I was just excited to actually do something more than just talk about this project. Sadly it isn't much but it is something. In the sticky it recommends sharing: Your skill level with auto mechanics and fabrication I do all my own auto repairs. I have a welder and I can do basic welding. I'm good with automotive wiring but am not an electrical expert. I have done 2 Gas engine swaps into cars that the engine/trans was never designed to go (check out LS1BMW.blogspot.com). The mechanical part of this project, building battery trays coupling the motor to the trans etc, sound like fun. I may have to copy and rely on some others for the electrical component expert advice. The range you are hoping to get (how many miles/charge) I'm going for 20 to 25 miles per charge. My round trip to work is 18miles (slightly hilly). Anything past that is bon

Reducing rotational mass is benficial in EV's just like in ICE's. What's even better in EV's is there no issue with the car being unable to idle or launch from a stop . I'm using an aluminum flywheel designed for the 318 (smaller dia than 325 or M) and an unsprung clutch disc. The metal ring gear on the AL flywheel is a bolt on and I'll remove this a little later as well. I bought the flywheel and clutch disc used and in good condition for $100 off e-bay. For that much I figured it was worth it. To get something with less rotational mass could go to a racing multiplate clutch and AL flywheel and turn off the ring gear. Would have more holding power and less rotational mass. I looked into it but the prices were crazy.