More on the motor flywheel adapter.
For this project I found some software to download for FREE (Alibre Design) that is ALMOST as good as what I used at work back then. Edit. Alibre Design sucks. They said it was free but then a few months later disallowed usage of the program. SO now my documents are drawn in a program I can't use. I DO NOT recommend it.
As far as the wild machining. All the center features were as purchased (it started life as a taper lock sprocket). The blind tapped holes aren't too difficult.
Well being the holiday I had some time to work on things.
Turned down the OD of my pilot bushing myself. Seems they don't make a 15mm ID bearing with the OD to fit the Warp 9 motor. So I started with a Mcmaster carr HPF bushing (6659k28) and reduced the outside to about .001 over the bore dia of the hole in the motor. Well I first tired .010 over but when I pressed the bushing in it shrank the ID. The bushing was only a $1.50 so I had bought 2. good thing. Try 2 was successful and I now have a pilot bushing installed into the end of the Warp 9 motor.
Also spent time installing the taper lock bushing and flywheel adapter onto the motor. Due to the clearance being small between the motor and the face of the taperlock there isn't enough room to put the allen wrench in to tighten the screws. I had suspected this would be the case and had planned to switch to hex hed bolts. This worked out. I decided to have the bolts press on the outer edge of the taperlock with their head instead of pushing with the end of the bolt As I was having difficulty getting the bolt the right length and the end shaped right. I made some spacers to go under the bolt head so that the pressure would only be on the taperlock bushing and not the flywheel adapter (modified sprocket). This seemed to work very well.
I also added a bushing between the taperlock and the shoulder of the motor drive shaft. This enabled me to remove and reinstall the taperlock without having to mess with setting the distance down the shaft each time. Just slide it over give it a tap with a rubber mallet and tighten. Oh I also ground about .020 off the face of the Taperlock bushing (inner part) so that when it was tightened it would not protrude past the flywheel mating surface. Another thing that I found was that there were some rough edges in a few spots of the taper part of the taper lock (from the casting process). Smoothing those greatly improved the fitup and run out of the adapter. Measuring at the friction face on the flywheel there is less than .005 TIR which should work just fine.
Looks like next step is to mount the motor to the transmission.
Pic of the pilot bushing installed into the motor. You can also see the spacer on the motor shaft that sets the spacing of the taperlock on the shaft.
Here is a picture of the flywheel instaled on the motor and my measuring setup. I actually took some video of me turning the flywheel and the dial indications. Decided it wasn't exciting enough to post
Here is a picture with the clutch installed (clutch alignment tool still in the center of the clutch. The clutch and flywheel will need to be removed again to install the AL plates that bolt the motor to the trans but I could resist test fiting and spinning the whole thing.
As far as the wild machining. All the center features were as purchased (it started life as a taper lock sprocket). The blind tapped holes aren't too difficult.
Well being the holiday I had some time to work on things.
Turned down the OD of my pilot bushing myself. Seems they don't make a 15mm ID bearing with the OD to fit the Warp 9 motor. So I started with a Mcmaster carr HPF bushing (6659k28) and reduced the outside to about .001 over the bore dia of the hole in the motor. Well I first tired .010 over but when I pressed the bushing in it shrank the ID. The bushing was only a $1.50 so I had bought 2. good thing. Try 2 was successful and I now have a pilot bushing installed into the end of the Warp 9 motor.
Also spent time installing the taper lock bushing and flywheel adapter onto the motor. Due to the clearance being small between the motor and the face of the taperlock there isn't enough room to put the allen wrench in to tighten the screws. I had suspected this would be the case and had planned to switch to hex hed bolts. This worked out. I decided to have the bolts press on the outer edge of the taperlock with their head instead of pushing with the end of the bolt As I was having difficulty getting the bolt the right length and the end shaped right. I made some spacers to go under the bolt head so that the pressure would only be on the taperlock bushing and not the flywheel adapter (modified sprocket). This seemed to work very well.
I also added a bushing between the taperlock and the shoulder of the motor drive shaft. This enabled me to remove and reinstall the taperlock without having to mess with setting the distance down the shaft each time. Just slide it over give it a tap with a rubber mallet and tighten. Oh I also ground about .020 off the face of the Taperlock bushing (inner part) so that when it was tightened it would not protrude past the flywheel mating surface. Another thing that I found was that there were some rough edges in a few spots of the taper part of the taper lock (from the casting process). Smoothing those greatly improved the fitup and run out of the adapter. Measuring at the friction face on the flywheel there is less than .005 TIR which should work just fine.
Looks like next step is to mount the motor to the transmission.
Pic of the pilot bushing installed into the motor. You can also see the spacer on the motor shaft that sets the spacing of the taperlock on the shaft.
Here is a picture of the flywheel instaled on the motor and my measuring setup. I actually took some video of me turning the flywheel and the dial indications. Decided it wasn't exciting enough to post
Here is a picture with the clutch installed (clutch alignment tool still in the center of the clutch. The clutch and flywheel will need to be removed again to install the AL plates that bolt the motor to the trans but I could resist test fiting and spinning the whole thing.
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