Chevy Volt and Electric 3 series BMW (Ev-36/46)

Been awhile so time for an update. While waiting for the long lead time EV parts (controller and motor) I have been shoping for a donor car. Just about bought one last weekend. After realizing the only thing I needed it for was to remove the engine and make the motor adapter I choose to just buy a transmision instead. This way I don't have another whole car hanging about the place for months while I just wait for parts. Of course if the right donor car pops up I'll grab it but until then I have something to work with. So with that in mind I started working on a adapter to adapt the WarP 9 motor to the BMW flywheel. First thing I found was the JPG drawing of the warp 9 is pretty much illegible from the netgain site. Oh well I could make out what I needed. I'm plaining to make the adapter out of a sprocket with the ID bore and Keyway dimensions required to fit the motor. Will save on some machining. I sketched it up on paper but would rather have a cad drawing. I downloaded a

I got notification that the motor will ship sometime in early October. Glad I'm not in a hurry because the controller will take even longer. Sadly I haven't even heard as much as boo from Cafe electric on a projected date. From what I gather from everyone else I should be expecting just in time for christmas

Well a little new news on the EV front. My powersteering pump arrived. Here's a picture for those that need a visual fix. The other big news is I ordered my motor today. Went with the WarP 9" as previously outlined. Been shoping for cars too. I really don't need the car until I get all the parts collected but if the perfect one was to pop up.... I've been looking at batteries. I'm thinking I need about 1,000 amp hrs worth.

I ordered a 2001 MR2 which from what I understand is less used by people for swaps. Cheaper and more available at the moment. Since I'm collecting parts and waiting for the zilla I have plenty of time to sort out the differences with the different style pump.

Not much to show at the moment . Just have the longest lead time item on order. Well after careful consideration I believe I made my decision on the Clutch Vs Clutchless. Though I believe the clutchless would work it all came down to this.......My wife. She will be driving the car as well. Her daily driver is a manual and if she is switching back and forth between the electric and she gets used to shifting with no clutch and goes back to her manual trans ICE powered car... I think you know where I am going with this.

Not much yet but I placed my order or rather "secured my place in line" for a zilla controller so I guess the project is started. I was just excited to actually do something more than just talk about this project. Sadly it isn't much but it is something. In the sticky it recommends sharing: Your skill level with auto mechanics and fabrication I do all my own auto repairs. I have a welder and I can do basic welding. I'm good with automotive wiring but am not an electrical expert. I have done 2 Gas engine swaps into cars that the engine/trans was never designed to go (check out LS1BMW.blogspot.com). The mechanical part of this project, building battery trays coupling the motor to the trans etc, sound like fun. I may have to copy and rely on some others for the electrical component expert advice. The range you are hoping to get (how many miles/charge) I'm going for 20 to 25 miles per charge. My round trip to work is 18miles (slightly hilly). Anything past that is bon

Reducing rotational mass is benficial in EV's just like in ICE's. What's even better in EV's is there no issue with the car being unable to idle or launch from a stop . I'm using an aluminum flywheel designed for the 318 (smaller dia than 325 or M) and an unsprung clutch disc. The metal ring gear on the AL flywheel is a bolt on and I'll remove this a little later as well. I bought the flywheel and clutch disc used and in good condition for $100 off e-bay. For that much I figured it was worth it. To get something with less rotational mass could go to a racing multiplate clutch and AL flywheel and turn off the ring gear. Would have more holding power and less rotational mass. I looked into it but the prices were crazy.